Costs for concrete pattern paving
- Thread starter jasperjue
- Start date
A couple of years ago we did a full concrete driveway with stencilled top in 2 colours. Then it cost $3,500. Our neighbours thought they'd tart up their plain concrete (already in-situ) diveway with the spray on stuff. It looks and is wearing fine - but cost $2,500. This is probably 5 - 6 years ago now.
Suggest you get some quotes.
The last house we did - I just water-blasted the old concrete clean, let it dry for 2 days and spent $110.00 for 10L of (oil-based) paving paint which I applied with a roller. I tried the water-based paving paint but it did not stick). It probably needs a second coat (I only put on one to see if it would be OK). But $220 is a whole lot cheaper than $2,500
The last house we did - I just water-blasted the old concrete clean, let it dry for 2 days and spent $110.00 for 10L of (oil-based) paving paint which I applied with a roller. I tried the water-based paving paint but it did not stick). It probably needs a second coat (I only put on one to see if it would be OK). But $220 is a whole lot cheaper than $2,500
Thats what I'd suggets you do too.
I did that with my last PPOR that we built. I think the stencil looks a bit tacky, just my opinion though.
Cost me about the same, $120 for 10L of tinted concrete sealer. It seals the concrete so it helps stop staining from leaves/oil and colours the driveway at the sametime. The term 'tinted' in this instance means solid colour not a faint colour.
For old concrete I'd hire a guernie and clean the bejesus out of it and then just roll the sealer on with a normal paint roller. 2 coats will do the trick nicely.
The last house we did - I just water-blasted the old concrete clean, let it dry for 2 days and spent $110.00 for 10L of (oil-based) paving paint which I applied with a roller. I tried the water-based paving paint but it did not stick). It probably needs a second coat (I only put on one to see if it would be OK). But $220 is a whole lot cheaper than $2,500
Hi Prop, can you remember the name of the paint, and any idea how much I would need to cover 18 Sqm?
Hi Prop, can you remember the name of the paint, and any idea how much I would need to cover 18 Sqm?
White Knight Paving Paint (not the Ultra Pave)
http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/product/view/paving-paint
You can work out coverage yourself from their web-site here.
See if you can pick up some (Or even one ) stencil templates,gerni the concrete well,
Set up your template,
Apply one coat of good quality paving paint by a roller to the colour of your choice,
While the paint is still wet,sprinkle some fine sand on it,next day roll it again with another coat.
Pull the stencil up and no one will know the difference from a professional job.
Same system is used for making non slip stairs with acrylic paint.
Ooooooo, now there's a trick of the trade - thank you.
- thank you.See if you can pick up some (Or even one ) stencil templates,gerni the concrete well,
Set up your template,
Apply one coat of good quality paving paint by a roller to the colour of your choice,
While the paint is still wet,sprinkle some fine sand on it,next day roll it again with another coat.
Pull the stencil up and no one will know the difference from a professional job.
Same system is used for making non slip stairs with acrylic paint.
Sounds good in theory, but won't the paint run/bleed under the stencil?
Also, if you leave it overnight, wouldn't the stencil get stuck with the paint and rip and tear all over the place when you try to remove it?
With the spray on paving, you have to remove the stencil before the top coat hardens too much so it doesn't get stuck as mentioned above.
Filament tape to make a tile pattern may work better when using paint applied with roller.
Otherwise, you might have to use a hopper gun or spray gun for stencil.
I agree with you in most of what you say,however the trick is the sand soaks up the excess paint,there will be some bleed,however it is a driveway and some bleed is fine..You are right the tape will work the same principal,there is a green lacquer tape I use that sticks to concrete well,it would probably be good for that job.I only pay $6 a roll for it,however I have seen it for sale for up to $20 a roll.
The paint hardening is not an issue,as it is only a thin coat,the paint used by the pros is a high build texture coating.I think the only reason they pull it up quickly is to get paid and go to the pub.
Hi guys
Just a few pointers for this thread.
I am a spray paver and have been in the industry for ten years;
*Spray pave when done properly and used in the right manner (no burn outs or constant heavy vehicles) will last as long as the concrete will. General maintanance would normally consist of a gerney washdown when needed, and every 2-3 years or so an application of clear sealer after a good high pressure wash.
This is why I offer a 7 YEAR GUARANTEE
*Spray pave will not fade like the stencil in the wet pour (when concrete is laid) as the colour is mixed into the concrete spray mixture.
Again to bring the colour back to life, pressure wash it
*Rolling concrete paint over the top of stencil will allow a fair bit of bleed, and if it wsa my driveway, any bleed is to much bleed.
Plus rolling it then adding sand to it is not a lasting solution. As paint and concrete sealer alone will normally have a life of approx 1-2 years, add to this the coarse texture of the sand and it will pull up under car tyres even quicker (although if it looks ok enough for you for 6 months then save the money)
*If you are wanting a cheaper finish, then NEVER use concrete paint. It does not last and should always be stripped back before re-applying more coats (if you apply coats one on top of the other your peeling problem will be enhanced)
Instead as a previous blogger has stated, use TINTED CONCRETE SEALER.
To apply tinted concrete sealer pressure wash your concrete area with a high pressure washer (also wash down with 1 part hydrochloric acid to 15 parts water first). Wait till fully dry then add first coat of sealer with a roller, when the first coat is dried (must be totally dry) then add second coat.
Any questions on this method or any thing else feel free to email me ([email protected])
Daniel - Driveway Makeovers
(Website online as off 01/11/2010)
*
Just a few pointers for this thread.
I am a spray paver and have been in the industry for ten years;
*Spray pave when done properly and used in the right manner (no burn outs or constant heavy vehicles) will last as long as the concrete will. General maintanance would normally consist of a gerney washdown when needed, and every 2-3 years or so an application of clear sealer after a good high pressure wash.
This is why I offer a 7 YEAR GUARANTEE
*Spray pave will not fade like the stencil in the wet pour (when concrete is laid) as the colour is mixed into the concrete spray mixture.
Again to bring the colour back to life, pressure wash it
*Rolling concrete paint over the top of stencil will allow a fair bit of bleed, and if it wsa my driveway, any bleed is to much bleed.
Plus rolling it then adding sand to it is not a lasting solution. As paint and concrete sealer alone will normally have a life of approx 1-2 years, add to this the coarse texture of the sand and it will pull up under car tyres even quicker (although if it looks ok enough for you for 6 months then save the money)
*If you are wanting a cheaper finish, then NEVER use concrete paint. It does not last and should always be stripped back before re-applying more coats (if you apply coats one on top of the other your peeling problem will be enhanced)
Instead as a previous blogger has stated, use TINTED CONCRETE SEALER.
To apply tinted concrete sealer pressure wash your concrete area with a high pressure washer (also wash down with 1 part hydrochloric acid to 15 parts water first). Wait till fully dry then add first coat of sealer with a roller, when the first coat is dried (must be totally dry) then add second coat.
Any questions on this method or any thing else feel free to email me ([email protected])
Daniel - Driveway Makeovers
(Website online as off 01/11/2010)
*
Re: post by DMitch32.
I tried to get you by email address but it was returned.
Text was
<Hi Daniel,
Saw your response of 13/10/10 and wondered the brand of concrete sealer you would recommend.
Have seen the Nutech page and their range of sealers. A local contractor (Adelaide) says the acrylic polymer sealer would probably only last about 2-3 years because we have a t-junction sloping branch from the drive which serves 2 cars only, 3rd car goes straight through.
Have you had experience with the epoxy sealers or paints? They do seem excessive for residential use.
Any help would be appreciated.>
Brian
I tried to get you by email address but it was returned.
Text was
<Hi Daniel,
Saw your response of 13/10/10 and wondered the brand of concrete sealer you would recommend.
Have seen the Nutech page and their range of sealers. A local contractor (Adelaide) says the acrylic polymer sealer would probably only last about 2-3 years because we have a t-junction sloping branch from the drive which serves 2 cars only, 3rd car goes straight through.
Have you had experience with the epoxy sealers or paints? They do seem excessive for residential use.
Any help would be appreciated.>
Brian
