Door To be installed from Garage to House Entry

[thokkotu]

Hello

need some advise as to how easy or hard is this job for DIY...

I did not go with a a internal garage to home entry with builder as garage level was lower and the builders variation was costing a fortune.. Basically my garage is 1 m lower than the main home and all i want to do now is install the door after which i will put in a timer platform and some steps..

I have attached a picture of the door and the door has to go where i have marked ..

The second picture shows post plaster picture from garage note the tapered wall which is to accommodate stairs on the inside

also attached is a plan .. i intend to put the door in the middle of the tapered wall, but have many timbers there, and they are all double so how many will i end up cutting down ? can anyone offer some advise. the wall is around 105 mm inside standard wall

thanks in advance

 

[Ace in the Hole]

I'm wondering why they've used double studs for that wall?
Can only think it's a requirement for load bearing purposes.

Should be an easy job for DIY, provided you meet the timber framing code requirements.

Will you be able to park a car when the steps will reduce the depth of the garage by approximately 1.2m or so for the 120mm drop in floor levels.?

How much would it have cost to have has the builder do it as a variation?

 

[Scott_Snap]

Without a full set of plans I will have to make some assumptions. The reason for the double studs is the wall is over 3.0m high and load bearing therefore double noggs and still having room for a 2.1m door on top of the 1.0m step also. Your new house looks to be 2 story by the floor joists in the back ground. There is the possibility of floor loading coming onto this wall and also roof loading from the lower level garage roof and the upper roof. This will be a massive job once the roof is loaded which by the look of the plaster it has been. Not a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced. You going to have to prop the floor and the roof at acceptable points. Be careful they appear to be I-Joists so the flanges will need to be filled before propping. This will be hard if ceilings are in. Being a straight stud wall externally it will be more likely be a bracing wall and this will need addressing either additional angle / speed brace or ply wood panels to keep the required number of Kn capacity. Depending on the amount of roof and floor load being carried that will determine the lintel size and the prop studs will probably have to be changed to F17 hardwood not pine. I wouldn't take this one without a heep of experience and dam good insurance cover.

 

[Doovalacky]

Agree with a lot of what Scott has said.

Its not a matter of just cutting a hole. Probably have to pull plaster off one side for most of that wall to support it initially with acrow props than add extra bracing required.
(non professional opinion only, just going by experience)

 

[DaveM]

Should have had it installed during build, any money saved will be spent on re-engineering

 

[datto]

Perhaps you could cut the gyprock between two studs and the floor to the first noggin and just crawl through inbetween. Bit tight I know but you could instal a pet entry flap to make it look neater and maintain room temperature. What the heck am I, an engineer? lol

 

[Scott No Mates]

From a practicality point of view, 1200 mm change in levels will require at least 7 treads x 250 mm wide plus the landing. Will you have room for the car? Cutting the hole in the wall is the least of your problems.

 

[Scott_Snap]

Sadly I have done this too many times. As well as being a qualified carpenter I owned and operated a prefabrication business for 20 years. Sometimes a designer would leave a door out (usually the garage access door) and I would have to go to site and do exactly this. As always the person to pick it up was the owner after everything has been plastered. :-( . The designer would say "sorry boss " and I would lose 10K and 3 days on site doing it.

 

[INVSTOR]

I was considering doing this with my Ppor when I first purchased. My friends entry goes directly into her kitchen which really turned me off when she was asking me for suggestions to remodel her kitchen.
Since then I've also heard it gives criminals easier access to your home.
I would actually prefer a home without shoppers entry now.

 

[plusnq]

I was considering doing this with my Ppor when I first purchased. My friends entry goes directly into her kitchen which really turned me off when she was asking me for suggestions to remodel her kitchen.
Since then I've also heard it gives criminals easier access to your home.
I would actually prefer a home without shoppers entry now.

Deadlocks ?

 

[INVSTOR]

Deadlocks ?

Deadlocks and solid wood doors would help.

 

[gaiusb]

Don't forget to allow enough room for a min 750mm deep landing before the doorway as required by the BCA.

 

[neK]

I was considering doing this with my Ppor when I first purchased. My friends entry goes directly into her kitchen which really turned me off when she was asking me for suggestions to remodel her kitchen.
Since then I've also heard it gives criminals easier access to your home.
I would actually prefer a home without shoppers entry now.

Isn't this why you should always get solid doors with deadlocks?
Too many houses i see use the internal type doors with a single privacy door knob you pick up from bunnings for $20.

Even if you installed a deadlock on these crappy internal doors it wouldn't take much to kick in.

 

[INVSTOR]

Isn't this why you should always get solid doors with deadlocks?
Too many houses i see use the internal type doors with a single privacy door knob you pick up from bunnings for $20.

Even if you installed a deadlock on these crappy internal doors it wouldn't take much to kick in.

Certainly! My relative had her front door kicked in.

 

[eek]

I would have thought it would be cheaper and easier to do it now before they finish up the framing upstairs and get the roof on etc.

As others have pointed out there are BCA requirements for rise/run of stairs and landings. You must check if you have space for all of that, especially since you need to rise up 1m?

As for door access- I personally much prefer having a garage with a door that connects to the house. Don't have to lock your car, run out into the rain/weather, run to your door, then fumble with some more keys to get inside. If someone wants to get into your house they'll get in regardless.

I'm personally embarking on a door jamb reinforcement exercise soon by installing 6mm steel plates in my door jambs to help stop them being kicked in. Worst case, they could break into my shed and chainsaw their way into the house through the weatherboards, hahaha.