Airless spray unit. Which one?

Hi.

I'm in the market for a spray gun for painting the latest reno property.

Has anyone had any experience of the Wagner range? I was looking at the Wallperfect W985E model or the High pressure 119 model.

Anyone have any comments or advice?
 
We bought one off Ebay. LOVE IT. Painted nearly whole house in 20 minutes.

1.7 HP 3650 PSI NEW AIRLESS PAINT SPRAYER SPRAY GUN
$400 but worth it.

I don't think those cheap Bunnings ones are much good.
Depends how much you want to spend I guess.
Ours paid for itself with one reno by saving several days labour.
 
Save your money,I just went through this with JWR.
If you want to buy an airless spraygun that you can do everything with,
Use it for any amount of work,ceilings,walls,roof,gloss,trim, and get your money back after two years buy a Wagner ProSpray 3.21 or ProSpray 3.22.
It is the smallest airless in the pro range and the PS 3,21 comes in non digital(Cheaper)Buy new for around $2200 or second hand for around $1000,
This item can be sold after you don't need it any more for $1000.
Cant get any better value than that.
This is just an example on ebay,this one looks well used which isn't a problem as they cant be killed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wagner-A...?pt=AU_Building_Materials&hash=item25724c76d8

Gumtree,offer $1000 for this one, cant go wrong ,

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brig...-paint-gun-rrp-3000-only-40hrs-use/1003454970
 
Pa1nter,

Can we get a tradie to do the prep and paint ourselves...

What are the pre-requisites? I have no experience in painting btw.

Thanks!
 
+1 on those little Wagner units for what you want. Also easier getting replacement parts should you ever need them, however agree - hard to kill those things

Personally we have very large pnumatic pumps for all the different epoxy and HS coatings. We use Graco X70 - 7250psi units, and some slightly smaller 60:1 Chinese knockoffs. :cool:

Also be on the lookout for a 2nd hand Speeflo every so often - good little units as well.

MsAli, painting is all about the prep, like most things. If you get a tradie in to get you to a stage where you can paint, I think economy of scales tell you more often than not it would be more worth your while for the painter to follow through with the topcoat, leaving you time to hunt out the next purchase. :)

pinkboy
 
yes I think that's the one. For what we want it for it suited us.
Did the job well. Quite easy to use.

I guess if you are a professional or using it every month then the more expensive one is the way to go.
 
Ive been told by more then one person that these machines use much more paint, ive been quoted 20%

I just read one of the descriptions and it says 3.1L per min

does that mean a 20L tub which can often do an entire house's walls , will be used by the machine in 6.5 mins!!!!!!!!!!!

surely this cant be right!
 
Ive been told by more then one person that these machines use much more paint, ive been quoted 20%

I just read one of the descriptions and it says 3.1L per min

does that mean a 20L tub which can often do an entire house's walls , will be used by the machine in 6.5 mins!!!!!!!!!!!

surely this cant be right!

Depends on tip size and operator, but yes, 3.1L/min is achievable. You can wave your hand around and be extremely trigger happy and burn on the paint hell for leather. You'd get more runs than Don Bradman though :D!

We have a High Pressure High Volume Plural Componant spray machine which can pump out 23lb/min (about 10.5L a min) - also note some of these coatings we spray have about the same viscosity as molassis!

pinkboy:cool:
 
Depends on tip size and operator, but yes, 3.1L/min is achievable. You can wave your hand around and be extremely trigger happy and burn on the paint hell for leather. You'd get more runs than Don Bradman though :D!

We have a High Pressure High Volume Plural Componant spray machine which can pump out 23lb/min (about 10.5L a min) - also note some of these coatings we spray have about the same viscosity as molassis!

pinkboy:cool:

I see! interesting,

can you spray paint the internal house wihtout going nuts on the paint, as my last job, the paint alone with trade discount cost $700, while using cheaper brands, any labour costs saved might as well be eaten in paint costs!!
 
I see! interesting,

can you spray paint the internal house wihtout going nuts on the paint, as my last job, the paint alone with trade discount cost $700, while using cheaper brands, any labour costs saved might as well be eaten in paint costs!!

Im not a house painter.......theres no $$$ in it :p!

All jokes aside, a competent operator will most likely use roughly the same amount of paint both the roller/brush method vs airless/backroll method. Id probably let pa1nter chime in on this one as he would know ideal tip size etc for houses. At a guess Id say anything from 315/17 to a 515/17 would probably cover most surfaces in a house without going awol!!!

As a side note, we can achieve 500um (microns) using an airless vs about 150-200um rolling on steel with the same paint. Airless give a more 'complete' cover and the build thickness can 'hang-up' far better than the pressing action of a roller.

pinkboy
 
yes I think that's the one. For what we want it for it suited us.
Did the job well. Quite easy to use.

I guess if you are a professional or using it every month then the more expensive one is the way to go.

Ok. A few questions if you don't mind?

Is it a Chinnese job?
What's cleaning after use like?
Are the pump parts plastic or metal?
Are spare parts available?
Anything else you can think of that would be helpful?

Cheers.
 
Ok. A few questions if you don't mind?

Is it a Chinnese job?
What's cleaning after use like?
Are the pump parts plastic or metal?
Are spare parts available?
Anything else you can think of that would be helpful?

Cheers.

Dylan and TB I have one of these as well. It has painted 3 houses so far(my one and 2 mates on their own). There are some parts that will go on them. The thread that holds the snorkel onto the unit went at the end of house 1 resulting in bad pressure so after trying in vain to replace the thread we ground the thread down and used an auto hose clamp to hold the snorkel hose on its been fine ever since.

We also didnt clean the gun handle well the first time so it clogged up and we replaced with a better one. Pull the filters in the triggers out when doing a proper clean.

As with all guns, there is cleaning work to do if you want the key bits to keep working ie the gun handle, tip, intake snorkel etc. You need to run water through after finished painting and then scrub the key bits clean too. Takes a while so i dont bother getting it out unless its a big job. Small jobs might as well brush or roll.

Overall very happy with that gun for the money.

Does it use a lot of paint? Yes I think it does use a lot for me probly 10-15% over what I would have thought. Need to be careful not to over spray or waste with the way you apply, Im probly still learning on this one. I rekon if I did a couple more houses I would try and trim down on paint with my technique but the first time you use thats not what is in your head, just having fun, blasting things and working out how not to get runs.

Standard tips fit this gun, and you can get a better handle if you destroy the one it comes with. Mostly metal parts as I said one or 2 key weak areas and the plastic collar that holds the snorkel on is one but fixable with some dodgy brothers ingenuity.

I am glad I have it and will use it again. The next job I want to do is find a big load of cheap liseed or tung oil, thin it down with turps and spray my 100+ metres of 1.8 high treated pine lapped and capped fence. Its weathering raw at the moment and I done want to apply anything with a brush it would take ages!
 
the other thing with this gun I dont think its quite as good with turning the pressure down and doing fine detail work. Some more pricey guns you can turn down to 1-2000psi and use a diff tip and do wardrobes and window frames with very little over spray. I am yet to get a good result from this gun with lower pressure and finer tips but I havent tried that many tips. Need to try some more to see what is possible but it may be the gun isnt so good once the pressure goes down.
 
The Chinese guns are fine if you want to muck around with erratic pressure,have lots of spits.

They use an inferior steel inside and rust pits form very quickly on the important parts and in a matter of days using an abrasive paint like undercoats and ceiling flats they no longer hold pressure properly.

They then need a kit put through them and that kit costs around $600,the difference between a good gun and a cheap one :D

Probably if you read the warranty it will say somewhere about not using abrasive paints and that's where I say about having a reliable gun?(Do you want it in getting fixed all the time or do you want to pull it out of the shed and use it straight away?)
 
PINKBOY< Thanks for that,I do believe using the spray and backroll method you will use the same amount of paint but better coverage than normal painting with out a gun.

The spraygun is like having 5 tradesman working with you,
If they are bad tradesmen they will do untold damage,and take twice as long.

The secret to using a gun is use it "sparingly",with a roller and brush.

I use the same spraygun for everything,
Ceilings I use a worn 517 tip and also a roller at the same time (We call that backrolling),the cornice I use two passes of a worn 211 tip.

The walls can be done the same way as the ceiling if you are careful.
Undercoating the door frames I use a 211 tip,doors a fairly new 411 tip.

All skirtings I use a 211.the walls I personally use a roller :rolleyes:.

The window frames I use a brush.

The gloss work can be done with a fairly new 411 tip using a mohair roller as you go in case of runs.

If you buy a gun you need two tips a 515 and a 211 and you have all your bases covered
 
Ok. A few questions if you don't mind?

Is it a Chinnese job? I'm guessing yes
What's cleaning after use like? As our house was fire damaged the walls were either new or had smoke damage so we needed to undercoat everything. The clean up (tups) was a bit of a pain. The ceilinmgs were waterbased so easy clean up.
Are the pump parts plastic or metal? metal
Are spare parts available?No sure. Maybe ask the Ebay seller
Anything else you can think of that would be helpful? We didn't get the pressure right when starting and it was coming out pretty fast. I was freaking out watching the paint tin empty. We should have thinned it out a bit more too.

Cheers.

As someone else said, I wouldn't get it out for a small job. We did the first coat on the ceilings and cornice in 3 bedrooms, hall, lounge and dining in 12 minutes.:D No cutting in so quick.
After the second coat on the ceiling we rolled the walls.

On another thread somewhere someone said they sprayed the walls first then put newspaper up under the cornice and sprayed the ceilings and cornice.
 
PINKBOY< Thanks for that,I do believe using the spray and backroll method you will use the same amount of paint but better coverage than normal painting with out a gun.

The spraygun is like having 5 tradesman working with you,
If they are bad tradesmen they will do untold damage,and take twice as long.

The secret to using a gun is use it "sparingly",with a roller and brush.

I use the same spraygun for everything,
Ceilings I use a worn 517 tip and also a roller at the same time (We call that backrolling),the cornice I use two passes of a worn 211 tip.

The walls can be done the same way as the ceiling if you are careful.
Undercoating the door frames I use a 211 tip,doors a fairly new 411 tip.

All skirtings I use a 211.the walls I personally use a roller :rolleyes:.

The window frames I use a brush.

The gloss work can be done with a fairly new 411 tip using a mohair roller as you go in case of runs.

If you buy a gun you need two tips a 515 and a 211 and you have all your bases covered

There you have it everyone - FREE reliable advice from a tradie!

What would I know, Ive had wayyyyyyy too much thinners to give a rational answer!!! :p

pinkboy
 
The Chinese guns are fine if you want to muck around with erratic pressure,have lots of spits.

They use an inferior steel inside and rust pits form very quickly on the important parts and in a matter of days using an abrasive paint like undercoats and ceiling flats they no longer hold pressure properly.

They then need a kit put through them and that kit costs around $600,the difference between a good gun and a cheap one :D

Probably if you read the warranty it will say somewhere about not using abrasive paints and that's where I say about having a reliable gun?(Do you want it in getting fixed all the time or do you want to pull it out of the shed and use it straight away?)
Whats an abrasive paint?

Ive recently picked one up (thats a paint sprayer) havent used it yet, am thinking of doing a paint job on a cheap IP,

im thinking of doing the ceilling and walls one colour and the skirts a different one, would this be a good way to paint?

- lay sheeting on the floor
- tape the floor edges with newspaper, leave skirts exposed
- paint ceiling and walls
- either paint skirts with a paint brush or tape tape tape and use paint sprayer??
spray ceil
 
Whats an abrasive paint?

Paints are a recipe of raw materials, and as such, some of these materials have a chemical make-up larger than others, which when forced at X000psi through the pump, they wear the parts of your gun/pump/hoses out.

Generally, the less viscous paints are more abrasive, especially epoxy and anything with zinc, ceramic or kevlar type additives. For house paint, again I would let Pa1nter chime in for your acrylics/undercoats etc

pinkboy
 
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