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Old 24-01-2009, 11:35 AM
beachside beachside is offline
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Dulux -v- Wattyl, ease of application?

Hi

Has anyone used Dulux and Wattyl id in the same conditions painting the interior of a home - was there any difference in application of paint (rolled).

I have just repainted my IP with Wattyl as that is the brand the painter used for the upper half of the exterior - let him risk falling and breaking something! I continued using Wattyl for the rest inside and out as he got it for me at his discount price.

At first I thought the Wattyl "Interior id" was lousy as I was having trouble blending the edges (particularly the ceiling as I used low sheen), and when I went over it again I just made it worse. I added a little water, and a little more (more than I have ever used before) until I was able to get a reasonable finish on the last couple of rooms. I later noticed that the tin suggested not painting in over 35 degree temps. Then I realised that I had never painted in the heat I was experiencing in a Brissy summer before, house is chamferboard with low pitched uninsulated roof so was quite warm.

The heat may explain the difficulty I was having but I would be interested in other people experiences in comparing Dulux and Wattyl in similar conditions - regardless of temperature. I have generally used Dulux in the past with no problems in getting a nice finish.

Also, does Dulux Weathershield take as long as Wattyl Solagard to harden?? I have never used either in the past and was surprised how soft Solagard remained for weeks after, particularly softening in the hot sun. The paint is like a soft flexible glue, which is a bit of a bugger when used on steps or decks because everything sticks to it. Even leaning over hand rails a week or two later left a slight impression of my t-shirt fabric.

Thanks
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Old 24-01-2009, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachside View Post
Also, does Dulux Weathershield take as long as Wattyl Solagard to harden?? I have never used either in the past and was surprised how soft Solagard remained for weeks after, particularly softening in the hot sun. The paint is like a soft flexible glue, which is a bit of a bugger when used on steps or decks because everything sticks to it. Even leaning over hand rails a week or two later left a slight impression of my t-shirt fabric.
Hi beachside,

I have used Dulux Weathershield gloss and yes, it is soft for quite a few weeks and other things (like some pailings I did) stick to it and when you pull them apart the paints comes with it Never tried doing it with a T-shirt though.

After hardening in the sun & rain for 3 - 4 weeks I find it fine and very long lasting - even stands up to high pressure water blasting OK.

I don't think you are supposed to use it on steps or decks
For these I've used White Knight water-based paving paint - and found it pretty useless - wears off too easily. I went back to the oil-based White Knight paving paint - its much much better in my experience.

Can't comment on wattyl id - sorry - never used it.
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Old 24-01-2009, 12:45 PM
man of action! man of action! is offline
 
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I previously used Haymes paint for internal painting and never had a prob'.

When using an oil based paint, I used to use a "flow improver" like Penetrol and for an amatuer like myself, this was magic stuff - made it much easier to apply etc and 7 years on, it's all still in good nick.

You can now get this for acrylic (water based) paints. I'd suggest it might be better to try this than start watering down the paint - remember the water is part of the chemical make-up of the paint, not simply a filler to make more paint to fill the tin.

The local paint shop closed a few years back and now use Dulux simply for easy of accessing the supply and find it to be a quality product - easy to apply and covers well with two coats. Can't compare to Wattyl as never used it but I know many pro's do.

As for painting on hot days (even 28c can be too hot sometimes), I suggest you dont as it can make it really hard to apply the paint and can effect the final finish - not to mention it can make the brush drag like a sack of bricks. If you have to, then maybe some Penetrol of something like that might help.

A friend who was a professional painter once told me it take several months for a paint to fully dry / cure / harden !!

Over time and having painted more wall than I care to remember but have learned a few things;
  1. Buy good quality paint. It may cost a bit more but than a "budget brand" but it saves you heaps of time and costs in the long run.
  2. Use the right paint for the right surface - ie weathershiled for external, paving paint for paving etc.
  3. Use a top quality brush - the acrylic(?) type bristles that you see in purple, blue etc are brilliant and make cutting in so much easier.
  4. Use top quality rollers, roller frames and poles - the cheap ones are a waste of money.
  5. Don't paint on cold or really hot days - it effects the finish and the painter too.
  6. Take your time, especially with cutting-in.

Hope it helps
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Old 25-01-2009, 07:29 AM
Stella Stella is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man of action! View Post
[*]Take your time, especially with cutting-in.
Just discovered painters masking tape - makes cutting in so much quicker to prepare for & easier to do - yay!

Cheers
Stella
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Old 25-01-2009, 08:17 AM
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shady shady is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stella View Post
Just discovered painters masking tape - makes cutting in so much quicker to prepare for & easier to do - yay!

Cheers
Stella
For get the tap stella, have a go with one of those cutting in tools with the pad and rollers on the end. End result is a much better job than I could ever do by hand and you can cut in a whole room in about 5 minutes.

Unfortunately only work on flat surfaces (walls) so for the trim back to using tap and a small cutting in brush.
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